The Four Seasons Restaurant
achieved something that few restaurants anywhere in the world achieved – It
became iconic. I wanted to pay it tribute because it was the ultimate
expression of branding and identification.
The Four Seasons Restaurant
is closing today. It will be missed by everyone
who has ever been there. For those who
were unfortunate enough not to have eaten there or or visited it, I want to describe the
experience.
The Four Seasons was more
than a restaurant. It was an experience
– every time I ate there, which was a few times a year. (In fact, I was taken there for my
twenty-first birthday and celebrated my birthday almost every year since.)
The Four Seasons transcended
the food, the crowd, even the ambience or the sheer delight of the Philip
Johnson interior. There was something magical about eating there. It was a total experience.
How many restaurants in the
world have their own lobby? The impressive
raw marble and the size of the entrance set the mood for an elegant meal. Guests had to walk up a castle size flight of
steps to get to the restaurant. The Four
Seasons was actually two restaurants, plus a gorgeous bar. The first thing anyone noticed when walking
up the stairs was the grill room with its lush, handsome wood and the gorgeous
bar, with hundreds of bronze rods dangling from the high ceiling. All guest were greeted at the reception desk.
People always had preferences for their choice of rooms. The Grill Room was warm, business-like and
somewhat dark. I always preferred the elegance
of the Pool Room, but many executives preferred the Grill Room. The restaurant kept records of who ate where.
Walking down the long
hallway to the Pool Room everyone first passed the fantastic Picasso tapestry (which
was created as a backdrop for the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo.) It was immense
and perfectly set the tone for the Pool Room and what was to come. Then came
the beautiful wine cellar with an extensive array of their wines, including
some of the world’s finest. Entering the
room was always an awesome and grand experience. From the entrance to the room,
every visitor got a view of the entire restaurant. The two story ceiling gave
the room an elegance unlike any restaurant in the world. The waving bronze curtains shimmered to form
beautiful waves. The tables were set far apart for intimate conversation. They were set with especially designed silverware, glassware, serving bowls and
napkins, all specifically designed for the restaurant. The room said to the world that this was a
special place.
Aside from the Picasso (now
at The NY Historical Society) there was tons of fine art – all contemporary –
Rothko, Rauschenberg, Jasper Johns, among many,
The art alone was worth the trip.
The Four Seasons became
iconic. There was no restaurant like it
anywhere in the world.
One could argue whether the
food was good or great (never bad). They served wonderful, creative food –
crisp shrimp in mustard sauce, gazpacho, crispy Farmhouse Duck, steak au poivre
and Chateaubriand. Many dishes were prepared
or finished table side. Their desserts were legendary. The meal ended with petit
fours and a huge mound of fluffy, pink cotton candy – what other restaurant
served this kind of outrageous meal? There have been many restaurants with more innovative and contemporary food, but none compared to the totality of the Four Seasons.
It had its share of
celebrities. Years ago, I saw Gregory
Peck; he actually stopped the entire restaurant (he was truly a gorgeous man);
he looked up at the hushed patrons and acknowledged their esteem. There was Paul Newman drinking his beer from
a bottle. Gwyneth Paltrow with a large
group. There were many others over the years. Almost every time I visited there, I could see ad agency luminaries. And of course there were tycoons of
business, some instantly recognized, some not so much. It was home to and the inventor of the "power lunch"because many of the business people ate there every day - at the same table, of course.
Unlike other restaurants, I
always felt that I was an adult eating there.
It was very grown up, but somehow its formality did not deter from the experience. It was the kind of restaurant that its patrons wanted to get dressed up for. I knew I
had arrived when they asked if I would like to open an account there, all I had
to do was leave a tip and sign the bill.
When they closed in 2016, because
their landlord would not renew their lease.
They then spent over $30 million to relocate and build a new space, sans
pool. It was lovely but it was not the
same place. The new restaurant was
actually gorgeous and impressive, but it could not replace what had been and
after nine or ten months of struggling, they decided to close.
It is a great loss.
Eating at the Four Seasons
was a statement. It was always
expensive, which made it a great place to entertain clients; inviting a client
to dine there was an announcement that the client was special. There are many great restaurants in New York
City, but none have achieved the status of the Four Seasons. The restaurant’s success was a tribute to its
partners, Alex Von Bidder and Julian Niccolini. They made every guest feel welcome, whether they knew the guest or not. They understood the restaurant and its patrons
and kept it consistently great and on brand – every detail was always consistent and perfect.
The Four Seasons closing
leaves me with an empty feeling. I will
miss it. There will never be another
restaurant like it.